I wonder if I'll be able to transfer the canned Naphtha into the convenient handy yellow squeeze bottle.? If it is different, Scooter's solution may be the way to go. So it may still be the original formula, new bottle.īut until I can call Zippo tomorrow (or complete a crash course in chemical engineering - whichever comes first), I will heed David's warning and "ass ume" nothing. Since the older product stated "contains Naphtha," I assume it also contained other stuff, perhaps this same Light Hydrotreated Distillate. Which raises the question, is this the same stuff that was sold in the "Contains Naphtha" bottles of old, or a new mixture. Ass ume nothing.Wise, sage, thoughtful, prudent.just a few of the outstanding attributes of David's comment.Īfter digging further (and feeling the heavy weight of responsibility to provide the OP with accurate information), I located this MSDS from 2010: "Light Petroleum Distillates" may or may not be the same thing as "Naphtha".
OP pic and post #9 show different contents on the Ronsonol bottles. I'm right 97% of the time.Davids Harp wrote:Mmmm.
Of course that means a slight sacrifice of more frequent refills in a hot climate. It may not exactly match the Ronson blend, or anyone else's for that matter, as it has a pretty low flash point, but that's what you generally want, especially in colder weather, for a spark ignition. If I needed a Zippo fuel, I'd buy VM&P from the paint store. There are many compounds in each category. Biggest difference is that Aromatic usually contains Benzene whereas Aliphatic does not and hence sees greater use. Slightly different cross sections of the hydrocarbon tree. On the naphtha thing, remember there are two basic families involved: Aromatic and Aliphatic. But if you want to do the right think, take it to the hazmat disposal unit of your local waste center. In the big picture, that's not going to make a lot of difference. It's very volatile, so if you don't mind contributing to the atmospheric pollution, just pour it out on some concrete or someplace where it won't get into the ground, it will evaporate pretty quickly. It was also used in dry cleaning processes. They had a special pop-top.they were sold for putting out kitchen fires. Back in the 60's we had several 10 or 12 oz cans of it under the kitchen sink. some of these guys will tell you that they have been using WD40 on carbon pots successfully for years.Ĭarbon tet isn't that bad for short term exposure.
Most of my magic sprays are applied sparingly with a toothpick. Use a tiny amount of grease on the shaft bushing. The chemical formula for isopropyl alcohol is C3H8O" When blended with water, isopropyl alcohol is often sold at 70% (seven parts isopropol alcohol mixed with three parts water) or 91% (91 parts isopropyl alcohol with 9 parts water) concentration. "Typically, isopropyl alcohol sold for consumer use is blended with water and is sold as an antiseptic or cleaning solution. Purchase 98% or 99% (sometimes you have to ask for it).Ĭheaper alcohol will contain a percentage of water and delay the drying time.Īvoid IPA in aerosol cans, as many will contain a propellant + lubricant too !Īs do some contact cleaners, but that's another story. Isopropyl alcohol – also known as isopropanol – is commonly known as rubbing alcohol ✵. IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) is available from the pharmacy. It wears out (gold wiper hits the resin).Ĭlean it with pure alcohol. Don't drink any of it, work in ventilated spaces, and wash up when you are finished.Ī carbon pot (potentiometer) is a thin layer of pure carbon on a phenolic resin substrate.Īpart from electrical connection and mechanical failure, there are only two things that can go wrong.ġ.
Many of these are classed as hazardous substances but the reason is not so much its persistence as its being a carcinogen, if I am right on this. A few drops will also kill an unwanted tree or bush. I also think a very powerful solvent is ordinary brake fluid. If this doesn't do it, I have the really powerful stuff waiting in the wings - first the denatured alcohol, which pretty much always gets it but can dissolve important stuff, and finally acetone which is really powerful. It's really benign and evaporates quickly. I have plenty of it and will never run out. I don't go as far back as carbon tetrachloride or methyl ethyl ketone but my favorite solvent is 1,1,1 trichloroethane. If that doesn't do the job I resort to left over hazardous chemicals I have had for years. My first solvent is often isopropyl rubbing alcohol.